Sunset from the deck just outside our bedroom.
Sheila and I found ourselves back in Bonaire for the fourth time, but this time after a five year hiatus. Many things are the same, but much has changed as well. The sun is still warm, the water still blue and the reef still is teaming with the aquatic life that draws so many to the tiny island. Bonaire however seems to being going through a mini revolution. In 2010 Netherland Antilles, (Aruba, Bonaire & Curacao) was officially dissolved; the ABC islands are no more. Aruba and Curacao decided to go their own way and become distinct constituent counties (Still part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands but countries in their own right). Bonaire decided to take a slightly different path and became a special municipality of Netherland proper; the simplest expiation is to say that Bonaire is now considered a city in the Netherlands. If you really want to understand the intricacies that are the Netherlands check out this awesome video:
One of the more obvious changes in Bonaire is the currency. When we were last there in 2010, Bonaire was still using the Dutch Guilder for currency. Ironically this was much longer than the Guilder was used in the Netherlands proper which changed to the Euro in 2002. Since using the Euro in the Caribbean makes little sense, Bonaire, like many other countries, has simply adopted the US dollar as its currency. Convenient except for the fact that the Canadian dollar is very low comparatively right now; small price to pay for borrowing paradise.
The closer ties to the Netherlands have brought a lot of positive change to the island. It would appear that the motherland is providing much needed infrastructure money, which had been lacking in past years. In the past, the potholes in the roads grew from year to year, building renovations were halted and never restarted and many vehicles were on the verge of falling apart due to the rust caused by the salty air environment. But now potholes are being fixed, new roads are being built to Netherland standards and even the rental companies have a fleet of shiny new trucks to haul your dive gear around. Even day to day shopping has improved, with many more modern looking options for groceries and other needs. But in my opinion, the most dramatic change has been to the eastern coast line. The east coast is on the windward side of the island and therefore collects all the junk that people throw into the ocean. This in the past has been a very sad sight. Piles of garbage littered the coast as the waves deposit everything from pop bottles to flip flops to toilet seats on the rocky shoreline. The garbage still keeps coming as we still have not learned not to use the ocean as a garbage dump. The people of Bonaire however have made a huge effort to clean up this coast. The eastern coast line has been transformed from a place which you couldn’t help but feel sad, to a place where you can really appreciate the raw power and beauty of the ocean with just enough of reminder of the work that must continue to clean up our environment.
The closer ties to the Netherlands have brought a lot of positive change to the island. It would appear that the motherland is providing much needed infrastructure money, which had been lacking in past years. In the past, the potholes in the roads grew from year to year, building renovations were halted and never restarted and many vehicles were on the verge of falling apart due to the rust caused by the salty air environment. But now potholes are being fixed, new roads are being built to Netherland standards and even the rental companies have a fleet of shiny new trucks to haul your dive gear around. Even day to day shopping has improved, with many more modern looking options for groceries and other needs. But in my opinion, the most dramatic change has been to the eastern coast line. The east coast is on the windward side of the island and therefore collects all the junk that people throw into the ocean. This in the past has been a very sad sight. Piles of garbage littered the coast as the waves deposit everything from pop bottles to flip flops to toilet seats on the rocky shoreline. The garbage still keeps coming as we still have not learned not to use the ocean as a garbage dump. The people of Bonaire however have made a huge effort to clean up this coast. The eastern coast line has been transformed from a place which you couldn’t help but feel sad, to a place where you can really appreciate the raw power and beauty of the ocean with just enough of reminder of the work that must continue to clean up our environment.
This ruin on the South-East coast, shows the effort that the people of Bonaire have put into cleaning up the island. I took the picture on the bottom left, back in 2010 to show the trash that was littered all over the coast. Fast-forward to 2015 and its all gone. Awesome!
This trip was different in other ways as well; this trip was different in the how and when. The when was different because in the past we have gone in November, which is the rainy season which runs about from October to January. Bonaire is essentially a desert island so even in rainy season the amount of rain varies a lot, but in a week’s span you’re sure to get some rain. In March however, the rainy season has past and the lack of rain brings the brown grass and dead leaves as well as a variety of local vegetation fighting for its survival. The many varieties of Cacti however thrive in this environment and we were witness to more than a few in full bloom. Life finds a way.
The other change in this trip was the how. In the past we have always gone in a relatively large group, 12-18 people, with the primary purpose of diving, which is a great goal to have. This time however it was just us and our gracious hosts who now make Bonaire their part time home. Being the guest of a “newly minted local”, has a great advantage in that they have found the hidden treasures that most tourists only hope to happen upon. Our host also introduced us to a few of the others that make Bonaire home. Making a living on a remote desert island is not an easy task but for those few that are driven enough, a way can be found if you’re willing to adapt and accept what the island offers you. I offer you two examples that you can check out for yourself if you ever decide to make the journey.
First, for snorkel & photo tours, check out H2O Visions. Brenda is the owner operator and a fellow Canadian. She will be sure to find you the best that Bonaire has to offer. For an eventful day out on the island ask about a "snack tour"
Second, check out Phish Phaktory for a truly unique gift or just to get some sewing done. Eunan & Suus run Phish Phaktory out of their home to repurpose and repair items that would otherwise end up in some landfill or worse, in the ocean. The results are both unique and artful and have the quality that you rarely find in our disposable world. Eunan & Suus are a great example of how people can adapt and endure and make the best out of the path that life puts out in front of us all.
First, for snorkel & photo tours, check out H2O Visions. Brenda is the owner operator and a fellow Canadian. She will be sure to find you the best that Bonaire has to offer. For an eventful day out on the island ask about a "snack tour"
Second, check out Phish Phaktory for a truly unique gift or just to get some sewing done. Eunan & Suus run Phish Phaktory out of their home to repurpose and repair items that would otherwise end up in some landfill or worse, in the ocean. The results are both unique and artful and have the quality that you rarely find in our disposable world. Eunan & Suus are a great example of how people can adapt and endure and make the best out of the path that life puts out in front of us all.
One of many Pelicans that we found on the west side of Washington Slagbaai National Park, fishing the ocean shore from the cliffs. I did get a chance to dive as is to be expected and it was as wonderful as I remember. But we also had a chance to see many other things that Bonaire has to offer. Washington Slagbaai National Park takes up most of the northern section of the island. There are two options to drive through the park, a long route and a short route. Either will give you a change to see some of the diverse landscape and wildlife with very little in the way of crowds. There are beaches, hiking trails, wild birds, donkeys, goats, lizards, iguanas and yes, a few dive and snorkel sites as well. It tends to be a full day excursion as the road is narrow a rough and there are lots of areas to explore.
We have been to the park before but something that we had not done before is to kayak the mangroves. The northern shores of Lac Bay are filled with these saline loving shrubs. Taking a kayak through them is a great way to see a different side of the island and snorkelling through them gives you a chance to see a wide variety of fish and jellyfish in a unique environment.
Bonaire appears to have a bright future. The blue waters and the pristine reef will keep the tourist dollars rolling in. The tourists may bring the dollars, but the real change comes from the locals; both native and adopted. Bonaire is in good hands.
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